BAM Docent Janet Kurjan takes SDA Members on a private tour of Counter Couture.
Recently Seattle area Surface Design Association regionals organized a field trip to the Bellevue Arts Museum to see Counter Couture: Fashioning Identity in the American Counterculture. This fabulous exhibition celebrates the handmade fashion and style of the 1960s and 1970s. Curated by Michael Cepress, a local fashion designer and instructor in the University of Washington’s School of Art, the exhibition highlights the “far out” fashions of the times and shines a light on the incredible artistry and craftsmanship expressed in these garments. The show is divided into four parts: Funk and Flash, Couture, Performance, and Transcendance.
Jill Nordfors Clark, Caftan, 1974
Funk and Flash looks at the bounty of individual expression engendered in these garments of the “hippie” movement. Early work by familiar names such as Yvonne Porchella and Jill Nordfors Clark showed hints of their later work in their fine craftsmanship and expressive flair.
Couture focuses on those artists who took this energy and expression into the mainstream, pioneering the field of Wearable Art. The jewelry of Alex and Lee, along with fashions by Birgitta Bjerke and Kaisik Wong took fashion to the edge of costume while still retaining the wearability of daily, or perhaps special occasion, fashion.
crocheted mens suit by Birgitte Bjerke
Performance bridges that gap between fashion and costume, capturing the tenor of a time when music and performers were exploding preconceived notions of what was acceptable in their search for self-expression. Wearable Art that graced some of the most famous stages of the times is on display. Outfits worn by Wavy Gravy, Mama Cass, Jimi Hendricks, and costumes from the gender-bending theater troupe The Cockettes are displayed among photos that place the viewer in the scene.
The final section, Transcendence, addresses the spiritual cults of the times. Remarkable video footage is shown with samples of the robes and long dresses worn by members of the Source Family of California, and the very local, Love Family. This section was a chilling reminder of my childhood in the early 70s, when the quest for spirituality and the sway of a charismatic leader derailed the lives of many families. It also brought back to me the use of clothing as a cultural signifier among the followers of Bagwan Rajneesh. Their bright clothing in the “colors of the sun” made them a highly visible part of life in Seattle in the 1980s.
Curator Michael Cepress has done a fantastic job of creating an exhibition that sites you in times through the music in the galleries, the fascinating photos and media, as well as the beautifully displayed, stunning garments. Although this is a fascinating reminder for those of us who lived through these times, the exhibition is not merely nostalgia. There is much here for the younger generation, whose DIY spirit has its roots in the taking back of craft of the 1970s. Plus, current fashion is very much looking back to the 70s for inspiration right now.
SDA Member Carla looking at the details on an elaborately embroidered outfit.
Our group was fortunate that Janet Kurjan, an SDA Member and docent at the Museum, took us on a personal tour. I wished that Michael (who is a friend) could have been along on our tour to observe the curiosity and detailed discussions of technique that this knowledgeable group of fiber artists shared during our tour. This field trip and the following lunch, were a truly wonderful benefit to membership in SDA.
I’m heading back to Bellevue tomorrow to spend more time with the show and also to hear Curator Michael Cepress give the talk– Unlocking the Psychedelic Trunk: My Journey into the Closets of a Movement. Tickets are still available. If you are in the area don’t miss it!
Counter Couture: Fashioning Identity in the American Counterculture
Bellevue Arts Museum
510 Bellevue Way NE
through January 10th, 2016
